GOLF ATRAVEL Player’s Guide
Southern Africa’s
Golden Triangle
Charles McLaughlin shares his experiences from a recent trip of a lifetime to the “Dark Continent”.
The Gary Player Country Club at Sun City 62
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Charles McLaughlin (Table Mountain)
Clockwise from above: Water plays a role down the closing stretch at The Gary Player Country Club at Sun City; the five-star Palace of the Lost City, one of four hotels in Sun City; a well-appointed suite at The Maslow in Johannesburg; the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront in Cape Town 64
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e ntion Sout h A frica to an avid golfer and they’ll likely conjure up t hou g ht s of t he legend a r y g reat s of the game – men such as Gary Player, Ernie Els and Bobby Locke -and also some of the best courses in the world, many designed by the aforementioned stars. Outside of the United States, more Major winners have come from this colourful nation than any other and they’ve left their mark on the golfing landscape. Unfortunately, in the very recent past, the country has also conjured up less positive thoughts on diseases such as Ebola. So, when I was invited to visit and see what the country had to offer in addition to golf, my immediate reaction was to undertake some research on this deadly disease. First thing I discovered was just how vast Africa is and how distant the Ebola outbreak was from South Africa itself. In fact, the outbreak, which was largely confined to West Africa, was actually closer to London and every other European capital than in it was to Johannesburg. That’s not to say there aren’t potentially some health risks to be aware of, but anyone living in Hong Kong has almost certainly been inoculated from them all and faces far more immediate risk from the likes of bird flu in our own backyard. With health fears assuaged I was then preoccupied with packing suitable clothing for
an itinerary I was told would include not only golf, but also safari excursions, sightseeing, and also some fine dining experiences. As such, pith helmet at the ready, I was grateful for the extra baggage allowance included with my business class flights courtesy of South African Airways. The nine-day trip revolved around a “Golden Triangle” of Sun International hotels in Sun City, Cape Town and Zambia with a packed agenda that promised the trip of a lifetime.
A Wonderful Welcome
First stop Johannesburg. As the world’s largest city not on a body of water, this sprawling conurbation isn’t a sightseer’s dream, lacking a “heart” that a harbour, river or lake side tends to bestow. However, with several flights daily from Hong Kong, Jo’burg becomes the hub for many South African adventures, and whilst transiting to and from the country, we stayed in The Maslow, another part of the Sun International Group catering primarily to business visitors and boasts fantastic conference, banquet, wedding and leisure facilities. I’ve travelled all over the world for work and have to say The Maslow was one of the best appointed business hotels I’ve ever stayed at. There is even an “arrivals and departure” lounge, where guests with early or late flights can go before checking in and after checking out. Like the airport equivalent, the lounge has shower facilities, drinks and snacks, large TV screens, newspapers and magazines, HKGOLFER.COM
etc. It’s a fantastic idea and I wish more places would do this. From Jo’burg, it takes around two and a half hours to drive to Sun City, the world-famous leisure resort created by Sun International’s founder Sol Kerzner in what was formerly Bophutatswana. As an independent state, Bophutatswana allowed casinos to operate when South Africa itself did not. Equidistant from Jo’burg and Pretoria, Sun City became and remains a hugely popular retreat from these major cities. We stayed at the Palace of The Lost City, one of four hotels in the resort and the flagship for the Sun International Group. The sheer scale and grandeur reminds one of Macau, but with the Pilanesberg Game Reserve on the doorstep there is no question one is in Africa. The accommodation is everything one would expect, with fantastic dining and leisure amenities. The temptation to never leave the massive grounds is strong, but just beyond the entrance driveway some of the most memorable experiences in the world await. As one might expect, there is first-class golf on your doorstep in the form of two great tracks. The vastly experienced Golf Director Anthonie Els (no relation of the “Big Easy”) runs a superb organization throughout and the facilities are superb.
The Gary Player Country Club
Due to the annual “Million Dollar Challenge” (c u rrent ly hosted by Nedba n k), t h is is undoubtedly South Africa’s most famous course, perhaps the best and at almost 8,000 yards it’s certainly the longest. It is the only Gary Player designed course to bear his name and is clearly his masterpiece. Since opening in 1979, he has tweaked it incessantly over the years – a huge bunker was being relocated whilst we played – and every shot needs concentration to avoid the awaiting water, rough, bunkers, run-offs and the highlight: the greens. Blink and a four-putt is all too easily possible. Remember you are at altitude and your ball will carry perhaps 10 per cent further, a very welcome factor on such a long track. The first gets you nicely away and doesn’t ask too many questions if you are trying to get used to your rentals, but the tricky par-5 second immediately reminds you where you are. The eighth and ninth provide as tough a finish to a nine as you’ll find – both are brilliantly strategic holes – and it is just as well that a stop after nine holes is mandatory. I feel for anyone being put out on the back nine first, as the par-5 10th would be a brutal introduction with its narrow fairway and tiny HKGOLFER.COM
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green. This is immediately followed by perhaps the toughest driving hole on the course, the dogleg 11th. Best to get your breath back on the next few holes because, from the 15th on, the finish is one of the most challenging in the world, with the 18th a superb closer, especially with a tournament on the line. Timing your visit is important with the firmer courses conditions of the dry season making it play considerably shorter. The rough is less penal then too.
The Lost City Country Club
The opening hole at the Lost City Country Club, a hugely enjoyable resortstyle course at Sun City 66
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A very different proposition to it’s big brother next door, this resort-style course is challenging enough and has stunning views and features (croc pit anyone?) but it is far more relaxing and frankly more fun. Golf Director Els prefers this Gary Player layout over the Country Club and it’s easy to see why. Golfers of all standards can enjoy a round here, but the top players will still find challenges aplenty. From the tips it measures over 7,600 yards, but plenty of shorter tee boxes give endless variety. Opened in 1993, the views across the veldt are breathtaking, with plenty of elevated tee shots. The signature hole is the 13th, which is played downhill to a green shaped like the African continent, over the pit containing adult Nile crocodiles, as well as a tempting number of new Pro V1s! The 9th and 18th curve left and right around
a lake running back up to the surreal clubhouse and while the former is a very long par-4, the 18th is a short par-5 and a definite birdie chance.
On Safari
Given the entrance to Pilanesberg is a twominute drive away, there are any number of excursions available to interact with the wildlife there. We went on two such trips, the low road and the high road, so to speak. Trip one was a wonderful evening game drive, which took around three hours. After being picked up at the hotel lobby by Mankwe Game Trackers we boarded an open-sided jeep. Seconds later, we were going through the gates to the reserve (where our guide Joseph stopped to load his rifle) and within five minutes had spotted our first big game, a lone young male elephant. Over the next few hours we were treated to an unbelievable number of sights of wildlife, including lions, rhinos, hippos, giraffes, zebra, elephants, hyena, wild boar, impala, springbok and many others including dozens of types of birds. The highlight was arriving by a lake just after a lioness had brought down a zebra. We spent a fascinating time watching the lioness warding off hyenas and even an inquisitive hippo to protect her kill. The evening concluded with a champagne toast in the park. As we drove back in the dark, Joseph used a handheld spotlight to find game in the dark by the road, an unnerving experience. HKGOLFER.COM
We were treated to yet another testament to the sharp eyes of our guide when he even spotted a chameleon 20 yards away in a tree! Over a sumptuous dinner in the Plume restaurant that night with hosts Lianne KellyMaartens and Sally Hancock, we had a hilarious discussion imagining the scene as the poor depressed chameleon (who by now had been named Cammie) returned home to his family to share his shame at not being able to escape detection in the dark. I guess you had to be there, but it remains the humour highlight of the trip for me. Sadly, an early night beckoned given our plans for the following day. A 4am start was called for as we headed back into Pilanesberg for an unforgettable hot air balloon safari. Taking off as dawn was breaking, the views were breathtaking and we were entertained by our vastly experienced pilot, Marty De Kock. For those who haven’t taken a hot air balloon journey before, it’s a unique experience. Given the balloon is moving at with the prevailing wind, there is no rush of air to tell you what speed you are flying at. The result is a remarkably calm and peaceful voyage. The other advantage is there is little noise to spook the wildlife below and we were treated to sightings of lion, rhino, hippo, impala and even a cheetah. The flight lasts an hour, with a game drive to and from the launch site, and culminates in a champagne brunch in a game lodge. Allow around five hours in total, but given the start time, the day has hardly begun. There is a large casino minutes away from the Palace Hotel, and the hotel itself also offers its own gaming VIP suites, something very familiar to Macau visitors. For those not gambling, the range of additional activities on offer is staggering, from the Valley of the Waves water theme park and nearby lake where you can water ski, wakeboard or jet ski in the unlikeliest surroundings, to plenty of kid’s offerings including Camp Kwena, the Stimela Train, Bumper Boats, and the Kowabonga Club.
Journey to the Cape
After an enormous buffet breakfast in the stunning Crystal Court restaurant we were off to the airport for the two-hour flight to Cape Town. Known as the “Mother City” because it was the first European settlement, this is a spectacular, vibrant metropolis. With the ever-visible backdrop of Table Mountain and the clouds rolling off its peak, we went to the bustling Victoria and Alfred Waterfront district with its colorful street performers, fantastic cuisine and craft stores. As a port city built on the slopes of a “peak” there is an obvious comparison to Hong Kong, but it is Sydney 68
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in the palatial presidential suite atop the hotel, where a dedicated butler completed the sense of opulence. It was an early start the next morning as we headed out to the wine country of Stellenbosch. Rolling hills and verdant pasture on each side of the road are the defining landscape of this glorious part of the world. Sadly, we weren’t stopping at the world-famous wineries here but were en route to Franschhoek and a modern Jack Nicklaus classic at Pearl Valley.
Pearl Valley Golf & Country Estate
On the opening of his design, Jack Nicklaus declared: “Surrounded by mountains this is one of the most spectacular settings in which I have designed a golf course.” The scenery alone would make this a memorable track, but this has to one of the Golden Bear’s top layouts. Water features on most holes, but it’s the green complexes that make this such a challenge. Since opening in 2003, it has already hosted three South African Opens and is home to Lee-Anne Pace, a rising star on the LPGA Tour. Regularly voted the “best-conditioned course” in South Africa, Masters champion Trevor Immelman famous declared that “I really feel like these fairways; they are some of the best, if not the best, that I’ve ever played on”. Each nine has a stand out hole, the fourth HK GOLFER・APR 2015
Charles McLaughlin (Table Bay Hotel)
Clockwise from above: the superb Table Bay Hotel in Cape Town; on safari at Pilanesberg; the ninth and 18th holes at the Lost City Country Club at Sun City
that one is most reminded of, with crystal clean air, impossibly vibrant colours and the relaxed, harbor front lifestyle. We stayed in the heart of the Waterfront, at the beautiful Table Bay Hotel. As the name suggests, the hotel boasts fantastic views of the majestic flat-topped mountain. The hotel has a statue of its mascot, a seal named Oscar, the base of which carries small plaques naming the famous guests that have stayed there, including Barack Obama, David Beckham and Nelson Mandela, who formally opened the hotel in 1997. This is one of the Leading Hotels of the World – and for obvious reasons. The setting and views alone lend it an air of grandeur, but from the minute you step into the lobby, it’s clear this is an impressive establishment. We were met by Sherwin Banda, the sartorially resplendent general manager, who clearly feels he made the right move coming here four years ago, after eight years running some of the finest hotels in Beverly Hills. High tea is an experience to savour, literally as pastry chef Bobby Kumar joined us to describe his influences, world travels and lead us through an overwhelming array of delicacies to accompany each of the selected teas from around the world. A walk around the harbor area was essential to burn off a few calories before we reconvened
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Charles McLaughlin (Nile crocodile)
and 13th. The fourth calls for three carefully planned shots over a creek to a very tricky green. It has been voted one of the best par-5s in the country and it’s warranted. The 13th is a knee-knocking par-3 where avoiding the water on the right often leads to a pull into a deep bunker on the left. Measuring 7,400 yards from the tips down to 6,100 yards from the forward tees, players of every standard can enjoy this course, although the water seems to be ever present. We sampled some of their great cuisine in the company of Golf Manager Carl Krog and Head of Sales Pamela Warrington and they walked us through the story of the stellar rise of this course in such a short period of time. It’s been a remarkable ascent and there is more to come. Back to Cape Town and we received a reminder of exactly where we are as strong winds forced us to put off our planned trip to the top of Table Mountain. A visit to Signal Hill gave us the chance to get some remarkable photographs of this iconic landmass, but my ascent to the summit will have to come on my next visit. R e t u r n i n g t o Ta bl e B ay Ho t el , we embarked on a tour of South African wines led by resident sommelier David Hendricks. A Meerlust Rubicon and a Kanoncop Pinotage were the highights of a wonderful sampling. Perhaps unwisely, we moved out to the terrace 70
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The par-3 13th at Lost City Country Club has a green shaped like the continent of Africa; the hole’s famous ‘croc pit’ features more than one of these rather unfriendly residents (below)
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overlooking the harbor, where David then allowed me to undertake my first act of sebage. For the uninitiated, this is the act of removing a champagne cork using a metre-long sabre. Enormous fun, but not for the faint hearted! A superb meal in the hotel’s Camissa Brasserie followed. The restaurant is named after the Khoisan word for Cape Town and specializes in native produce. Chef Jason Franco took us to the kitchens to show us the dinner he had created for us featuring entirely locally-sourced ingredients, even down to the wild herbs picked from the hotel gardens and surrounds.
Zambezi Adventure
Charles McLaughlin
A short walk from the Royal Livingstone Hotel and you’re face-to-face with Victoria Falls, one of the seven wonders of the natural world (above); splendid Pearl Valley, one of Jack Nicklaus’ standout designs (opposite) 72
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Zambia was the next destination on the itinerary, which required a painfully early start the next morning. With a rapid transfer in Jo’burg, the flight to Livingstone takes just over five hours, but you are rewarded with a sight of the famed Victoria Falls upon arrival and departure. From arrivals, we were taken to a jetty on the Zambezi River to board a speedboat for what must be one of the most surreal “airport transfers” anywhere. In seconds we were riding the rapids down towards the rising clouds of mist from the falls, zooming past pods of hippos. In all too short a time, we were stepping
onto the arrival dock of the Royal Livingstone Hotel, where we were greeted with cocktails and cold towels. Incidentally, the dock is a great place to chill with a bottle of Mosi, the local lager, or a sun-downer of an evening. We walked by the zebra grazing on the lawn to the Livingstone Lounge, adjacent to the Travellers Bar to check in. The hotel is actually a series of 17 two-story riverfront residences and has a distinctly Victorian feel despite being built at the turn of this century, not the last! After a relaxing afternoon by the pool, it was time to get the glad rags on for dinner on the Royal Livingstone Express. Taking it’s cue from the legendary Orient Express, this working steam train takes groups along the tracks laid centuries before and across the Victoria Falls bridge and briefly into Zimbabwe. En route we had drinks as the sun set, accompanied by a fascinating talk by local hotelier and historian Peter Jones, before the guests made their way through to the beautifully restored dining cars where a five-course meal prepared by the Royal Livingstone hotel chefs awaited. In a trip of “once in a lifetime” moments, the following morning was perhaps the most remarkable of all. A short hop on a river boat took us to Livingstone Island, a rocky outcrop in the centre of the Zambezi River on the HKGOLFER.COM
edge of the falls. This spot, unreachable when the river is at its height from February to July, was where Dr David Livingstone first set eyes on what the locals called Mosi-oa-Tunya, “the smoke that thunders”. We were to have breakfast there, but first came the most surreal moment of the trip. From late September to December, the drier conditions reveal an area called “The Devil’s Pool”, a deep pocket of water on the lip of the falls which is reached by swimming across the river and clambering over a rocky outcrop, before diving in again. With the 110-metre high falls just inches away, sitting on the edge of this pool is perhaps not the most intelligent thing I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly one of the most exhilarating. With your guide taking pictures throughout, the images are there as wonderful reminders, although anyone who hasn’t been there would swear they were faked. Google “Devil’s Pool” to see what I mean! Following breakfast on the island and a cruise back to the hotel, we went for a stroll along the paths overlooking the falls from the “sensible” side. This is where the Royal Livingstone’s location is so unique. A path from the front of the hotel leads to the entrance to the national park and one can view the falling water within just five minutes of setting out. In my experience HKGOLFER.COM
only the El Tovar lodge on the lip of the Grand Canyon comes close in terms in terms of proximity to one of the “Seven Natural Wonders of the World”. There is a golf course in Livingstone, but sadly despite attempts to restore it a few years ago, it is currently a shadow of it’s former self. Only an avid golf historian would venture there, and with a couple of hours to spare that is exactly what we did. A feature dedicated to this forgotten gem will follow in a later edition. In the late afternoon we travelled to the berth of the African Queen, next door to the colourful Zambezi Boat Club, to head off on an evening river safari. Free flowing gin and tonic sundowners led us to a dubious decision to spend the trip on the roof of the craft, but the views of both animals and the sunset were significantly better and the brief tropical downpour we endured heightened the senses rather than dampened our spirits. Dinner saw us being spoiled again, with a superb meal in the Royal Livingstone Dining Room hosted by our delightful host, General Manager Guillaume Durand, accompanied by some outstanding South African wines, including another crossing of the Rubicon! Before heading back to Jo’burg the following day, we spent the morning at the nearby HK GOLFER・APR 2015
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A wonderfully conditioned course awaits at the Serengeti Golf and Wildlife Estate (above); a balloon safari at Pilanesberg, near Sun City (opposite) 74
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Mukuni Big 5 safari, home to a conservation program to breed ex-captive endangered species with a view to releasing the offspring into the wild. A visit not only raises much needed funds for this worthy endeavor, it also gives the visitor the chance to actually sit and interact with adult lions and cheetahs which have been rescued from zoos. Anyone who has been close to a big cat will know that the “purr” sends shivers down your spine. When it’s a reaction to you actually stroking the animal it gets somewhat intimidating. That the next activity is to take these majestic beasts “out for a stroll” only adds to the unreal nature of this experience. Finally, we got to see the fastest land mammal in the world in full flight as the cheetahs were put through their paces chasing a lure being hauled around a zigzag path in an area of scrubland, at speeds of over 100 kilometres an hour. All too soon we were on our way back to Jo’burg for a final night in the Maslow Hotel. This time we visited the Lacuna Bistro and Bar where, after sampling several of the local craft beers, we got the chance to dine with the charming General Manager, Johan Scheepers. Over a superb meal, Johan, a keen triathlete, described his vision for the development of the hotel and also regaled us with tales of how in a previous designer role he had crossed swords with his father, who was building the clubhouse at the Serengeti Golf Club. As luck would have it, we were to visit the Serengeti
the following day. Another Jack Nicklaus signature design which has hosted the South African Open, the Serengeti is at the heart of an ultra-secure community with its own schools and facilities. Given its proximity to Johannesburg, it has become a very popular residential option for local families with small children seeking a relaxed lifestyle close to the big city.
Serengeti Golf and Wildlife Estate
Opened in Jun 2009, plans are in place to add nine more holes to the 27-hole already there. The championship 18-hole Masi Mara and the ninehole Whistling Thorn offer differing feels, with the former a dunescape with rugged grassland surrounds and bordering a game reserve and the latter more of a plains-like track. As one might expect the course was in immaculate condition, with a rye grass and fescue mix on the fairways, Kentucky Blue in the rough and Bentgrass greens and tees. These cool-season grass choices mean that the course is green and lush the whole year round. In the words of the general manager, sometimes the tees are running better than the greens! The signature hole is the par-5 eighth with its island green. The fairways and greens are very undulating with flat lies a rarity. At over 7,700 yards it’s no pushover, but the forward tees at 6,300 yards and the more resort feel of the Whistling Thorn are there for a more HKGOLFER.COM
relaxed experience. Finding a well-stocked complimentary bar inside the locker room was the perfect finishing touch to a superb experience. In a part of the country that boasts some of the finest courses, the developers knew the Serengeti had to be something special, and they’ve certainly achieved that.
An afternoon trip to Soweto was the final activity on a jam-packed itinerary. A wag once had me believing Soweto was the traditional Zulu name for the area, whereas it is in fact an acronym of South Western Townships. Famous for the Soweto Uprising, a trip highlights the progress made in improving the facilities available in the area as well as offering the chance to see the Soccer City Stadium (which hosted the World cup final in 2010), the Baragwanath Hospital (once the largest in the world), the decorated Orlando Towers from the disused power station (think Banksy rather than Bankside), Winnie Mandela’s fortified house and other landmarks. Most poignant however is the tiny bungalow at 8115 Orlando West where Nelson Mandela lived and which is now a museum dedicated to the man the locals called Madiba, the “father of the nation”. Before going to South Africa, I knew the stellar reputation of the golf courses in this, the land of Major winners. However, I spent an inordinate amount of time looking into health threats, both biological and social, and expecting to find it somewhat lacking in terms of activities, first-class food and drink, and 5-star accommodation. Instead, I found a land of friendly welcoming people, less health risks than Hong Kong (bird flu, anyone?), the gaming facilities of Macau, fantastic local food and world-class wines, and the superb Sun International hotels. In addition, I thought I would be spending hours travelling to see animals from a distance. In fact I got infinitely closer to the animals than I ever thought possible – from an open-sided truck, from above in a balloon, from a river cruiser and ultimately sitting with a cheetah in my lap. Finally, I thought I would find myself in jungle environments sweating profusely, wielding a machete. The reality was that the temperate dry climate was one any visitor to Australia would recognize immediately, and the only blades I wielded were my golf clubs and a saber to open a bottle of champagne. Without question this was the trip of a lifetime, but in every case I undertook activities available to any visitor. It was a wrench to leave and I would return in a heartbeat. HKGOLFER.COM
Charles McLaughlin
Heading Home
NEED TO KNOW THE GOLF
GETTING THERE
Gary Player Country Club suninternational.com/golf/garyplayercountryclub
Award-winning South African Airways (flysaa.com) operates direct flights between Hong Kong and Johannesburg. Flying time: 13 hours.
Lost City Country Club suninternational.com/golf/thelostcitycountryclub Pearl Valley Golf & Country Estate pearlvalley.co.za Serengeti Golf & Wildlife Estate serengeti.co.za
WHERE TO STAY The Maslow suninternational.com/maslow Palace of the Lost City suninternational.com/sun-city/palace Table Bay Hotel suninternational.com/table-bay Royal Livingstone Hotel suninternational.com/royal-livingstone
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